Chemical Composition of Sunscreen Chemicals

Review Article | DOI: https://doi.org/10.31579/2688-7517/230

Chemical Composition of Sunscreen Chemicals

  • Patricia-Andreea Ghibu 1
  • Angela Caunii 2,3
  • Monica Butnariu 1*

1University of Life Sciences "King Mihai I" from Timisoara, 300645, Calea Aradului 119, Timis, Romania.

2"Victor Babes" University of Medicine and Pharmacy Timisoara, 300041, Timisoara, Romania.

3Drug Data Analysis Center, Computer Chemistry and the Internet of Medical Things, "Victor Babes" University of Medicine and Pharmacy Timișoara, 300041, Timisoara, Romania.

*Corresponding Author: Monica Butnariu, University of Life Sciences

Citation: Patricia-Andreea Ghibu, Angela Caunii, Monica Butnariu, (2025), Chemical Composition of Sunscreen Chemicals, J. Pharmaceutics and Pharmacology Research, 8(2); DOI:10.31579/2688-7517/230

Copyright: © 2025, Monica Butnariu. This is an open access article distributed under the Creative Commons Attribution License, which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited.

Received: 04 April 2025 | Accepted: 16 April 2025 | Published: 29 April 2025

Keywords: sunscreen products; UV filters; photoaging; sun protection factor

Abstract

Initially, sunscreens were intended to protect users from the sun's rays when they went to the beach. Later, the same products were used in winter sports, because the sun's rays affect the skin more strongly when reflected by the surface of the snow. However, today, UV filters are found in cosmetic products used every day, such as day moisturizers, hair care products, aftershave products, lipstick or makeup products. Initially, UV filters were found in products intended for winter sports, such as lip balm, and later entered the composition of daily cosmetics. Moreover, along with consumer needs, new sunscreen products with different characteristics, intended for use on the beach, have appeared on the market.

1.Introduction

It is well known that the ozone layer absorbs approximately 44.3% of visible (VIS) radiation (400–760 nm), 49.5% of infrared (IR) radiation and only 6.2% of ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Within UV radiation, 98% is ultraviolet A (UVA) radiation (320–400 nm) and 2% is ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation (290–320 nm). 

While ultraviolet C (UVC) radiation (100–290 nm), which has the highest energy potential and is therefore the most harmful, fortunately does not reach the Earth [1].

Exposure in small amounts to UV radiation has a therapeutic effect on various pathologies because it stimulates the endogenous synthesis of vitamin D by the human body. 

This, in turn, increases calcium absorption and thus prevents osteoporosis and rickets, also has beneficial effects on arthritis, blood pressure regulation, diabetes and muscle endurance, and improves mood [2].

On the other hand, tanned skin has been associated with a standard of beauty by Caucasians. However, due to the degradation of the ozone layer, the intensity of UV solar radiation reaching the Earth has increased in recent years, which could explain the increased incidence of skin cancers.

In addition, it is scientifically proven that overexposure to sunlight can cause other harmful health effects, such as skin inflammation or sunburn, immunosuppression, hyperkeratosis or skin photoaging and photoallergic reactions [3] .

For this reason, the use of sunscreen products can prevent or minimize the adverse effects mentioned above. Sunscreen products contain different chemicals that have a high degree of UV absorption, called UV filters. These products are classified into different categories by different countries, which depend on the legislation in force in each country.

2. Types of sunscreen products

With consumer needs, new sunscreen products with different characteristics have appeared on the market, intended for use on the beach [4]. 

AbbreviationAbbreviation INCI NameEUUSJP
3BC3–Benzylidene camphor2  
BCSBenzylidene camphor sulfonic acid6a  
BDMButyl methoxydibenzoylmethane5310
BZ1Benzophenone–1  10
BZ2Benzophenone–2  10
BZ3Benzophenone–31065
BZ4Benzophenone–4b51010
BZ6Benzophenone–6  10
BZ8Benzophenone–8 3 
BZ9Benzophenone–9  10
CBMCamphor benzalkonium methosulfate6  
CXCinoxate 35
DBTDiethylhexyl butamido triazone10  
DDP1-(3,4–Dimethoxyphenyl)–4,4–dimethyl–1,3–pentanedione  7
DHHDiethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate10  
DMCDiisopropyl methyl cinnamate  10
DRTDromethizole trisiloxane15 15
EDPEthylhexyl dimethyl PABA8810
EDDPEthylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazolidine propionate  3
EMCEthylhexyl methoxycinnamate107.520
EMTbis–Ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine10  
ESEthylhexyl salicylate5510
ETEthylhexyl triazone5 5
FAFeluric acid  10
GEDGlyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate  10
GPH4-(2-beta-Glucopyranosyloxy) propoxy-2-hydroxybenzophenone  5
HSHomosalate101510
IMCIsoamyl p-methoxycinnamate10  
IPMIsopropyl methoxycinnamate  10
ITTIsopentyl trimethoxycinnamate trisiloxane  7.5
MAMenthyl anthranilate 5 
MBC4-Methylbenzylidene camphor4  
MBTMethylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramenthylbutylphenol10 10
OCROctocrylene10(ca acid)1010
P15Polysilicone-1510  
P25PEG-25 PABA10  
PABPABA5154d
PBCPolyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor6  
PBSPhenylbenzimidazole sulphonic acid843
PDPPentyl dimethyl PABA (mixture of isomers)  10
PDTDisodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate10(ca acid)  
TDSTerephthalylidene dicamphor sulphonic acid10a10 
TiO2Titanium dioxide2525 
TSTEA-salicylate 12 
ZnOZinc oxide 25 

aPotassium, sodium and TEA (as acid) salts are also permitted.

bBenzophenone–5 (BZ5) is the sodium salt of the compound benzophenone–4 (BZ4).

cContains 3–9% methyl diisopropyl cinnamate (MDC) and 15–21% ethyl diisopropyl cinnamate (EDC).

dIncluding all esters: ethyl PABA (EP), butyl PABA (BP) and glyceryl PABA (GP).

INCI, International Nomenclature for Cosmetics Ingredients.

Table 1: Presents organic UV filters that contain ionizable groups such as: sulfonic (SO2H) or carboxylic (COOH) groups, which give them solubility in water. In addition, UV filters can be classified into UVA filters and UVB filters depending on the type of radiation they absorb. Therefore, they can usually be added to all types of cosmetic products [5].
So, apart from traditional body creams and milks, which are water-in-oil (W/O) or oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions, with different degrees of viscosity, and oils, we can find a wide range of products, which include water-based products, hydroalcoholic lotions and microemulsions, which can be easily used as sunscreen products, since they can be sprayed [6].
In addition, UV filters can also be added to cosmetic products to protect them from sunlight.
All this has led to the design of a wide variety of UV filters, with different solubility properties, since products with different oil / water proportions are available on the market.
So, we can find fat-soluble and water-soluble UV filters. 
Thus, lipsticks, oils, hydroalcoholic lotions and foundations (which have a high fat content) are usually formulated with fat-soluble UV filters [7].
Aqueous lotions and gels include water-soluble UV filters. Creams, cosmetic milks and microemulsions are formulated with both water-soluble and fat-soluble UV filters, where they remain in the aqueous or fatty phase of the emulsion [8].

3. Nature of UV filters

V filters can be classified into two groups, depending on their nature. Inorganic UV filters, or so-called physical UV filters, which act mainly by reflecting and scattering UV radiation, while organic UV filters, called chemical UV filters, absorb light [9].

Physical UV filters are generally metal oxides, although silicates and talc have also been used. They offer greater protection than chemical ones and are not water-soluble. However, they are less commonly used by people because they generally form a screen on the skin, which is uncomfortable. Furthermore, cosmetic preparations based on physical UV filters are more difficult to formulate, as they can break the emulsion [10].

As can be seen in Table 1., currently, only titanium dioxide is approved as a physical UV filter by the European Union Cosmetics Directive, and zinc oxide is not considered to fall into this category.

On the other hand, both titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are authorized by the FDA as UV filters. As for chemical UV filters, they are organic compounds that have a high molar absorption in the UV range [11].

Benzophenone derivatives
CodeR1R2R3R4R5R6
BZ1–OH–OH–H–H–H–H
BZ2–OH–OH–H–OH–OH–H
BZ3–OH–OCH3–H–H–H–H
BZ4–OH–OCH3–SO3H–H–H–H
BZ6–OH–OCH3–H–OH–OCH3–H
BZ8–OH–OCH3–H–H–OCH3–H
BZ9–OH–OCH3–SO3H–OH–OCH3–SO3H
GPH–OH–O–(CH2)3OSi–Glucoză–H–H–H–H
p-Aminobenzoic acid and derivatives
CodeR1R2R3
EDP–CH2–CH(C2H5)–(CH2)3–CH3–CH3–CH3
EP–C2H5–H–H
GP–CH2–CH(OH)–CH2OH–H–H
PAB–H–H–H
PDP–C5H11–CH3–CH3
P25–(C2H4O)x–C2H5–(C2H4O)i–C2H5–(C2H4O)z–C2H5
x + i + z = 25
Salicylates
CodeR
ES–CH2–CH(C2H5)–(CH2)3–CH3
HS
TS[NH(CH2–CH2–OH)3]+
Cinnamon sticks
CodeR1R2R3R4R5 
CX–C2H4–OC2H4–H–H–OCH3–H 
DMC–CH3–CH(CH3)2–H–CH(CH3)2–H 
EDC–C2H5–H–CH(CH3)2–H–CH(CH3)2 
EMC–CH2–CH(C2H5)–(CH2)3–CH3–H–H–OCH3–H 
FA–H–H–OCH3–OH–H 
IMC–(CH2)2–CH(CH3)2–H–H–OCH3–H 
IPM–CH(CH3)2–H–H–OCH3–H 
ITT–H–OCH3–OCH3–OCH3 
MDC–CH3–H–CH(CH3)2–H–CH(CH3)2 
Camphor derivatives
Triazine derivatives
DBTR1 = R2
R3
EMTR1 = R2
R3
ETR1 = R2 = R3
Benzotriazoles
Benzotriazoles
Other representatives

Figure 1: Classification of organic UV filters

These compounds usually contain single or multiple aromatic structures, sometimes conjugated with carbon-carbon double bonds and/or carbonyl groups [12].

Cosmetic products containing these compounds are, however, better accepted by people than physical filters, despite causing some dermatological side effects.

In addition, various toxicological studies performed on animals seem to indicate that some organic UV filters have significant estrogenic and antithyroid effects [13].

A study on hormonal changes performed on human volunteers after the application of sunscreen products indicated that these effects are not so great.

UV filters can be classified according to their chemical structure (Figure 1): benzophenone derivatives, p–aminobenzoic acid and its derivatives, salicylates, cinnamates, camphor derivatives, triazine derivatives, benzotriazole derivatives, benzimidazole derivatives and others [14].

Figure 2. illustrates the characteristic UVA, UVB and UVA+UVB spectra of BDM, EDP and BZ3.

5. Efficacy and safety of sunscreen products

The purpose of a sunscreen product is, of course, to protect the user from solar radiation. To achieve this purpose, users must be correctly informed about the protective capacity of the product used.
Various parameters have been used to evaluate the efficacy of sunscreen products and thus provide appropriate information through product labeling.
The most widely used parameter is the so–called sun protection factor (SPF) of a product, which corresponds to the increase in UV dose to which protected skin can be subjected without showing erythema, compared to unprotected skin. The Cosmetics Industry of Europe, Japan, the USA and South Africa, represented by their associations, the European Cosmetics, Cosmetics and Fragrance Association (COLIPA), the Japanese Cosmetics Industry Association (JCIA), the US Cosmetics, Cosmetics and Fragrance Association (CTFA) and the South African CTFA, signed the International SPF Test Method in June 2006.
This is an in vivo test based on the irradiation of UV rays on the skin of several volunteers, under specified conditions, and thus obtaining the time required for the formation of erythema.
The SPF value is presented by the values ​​of this time obtained with and without the previous application of the sunscreen product to be analyzed. The method will initially be applied throughout the EU, Japan and South Africa.
In the United States, the FDA regulation provides for a slightly different method. The SPF of a product is related to the nature of the UV filters it contains and their concentration. Regarding safety, as previously mentioned, some secondary dermatological effects have been attributed to UV filters. The number, nature and maximum permitted concentrations are also restricted by various legislations.
Thus, it is clearly indicated that analytical control of UV filters is essential to ensure the efficacy and safety of sunscreen products.
On the other hand, UV filters, such as p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) and its derivatives that potentiate the function of amines, could form nitrosamines, which are suspected of having carcinogenic properties. Therefore, a rigorous control of the finished product must be carried out. Some relevant aspects regarding the safety and efficacy of sunscreen products are dealt with in different articles.

Conflict of interest

The authors declare no conflicts of financial interest in any product or service mentioned in the manuscript, including grants, equipment, medications, employments, gifts, and honoraria.
This article is a review and vegetal products have not been administered to men or animals.

References

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Sonila Qirko

My experience publishing in International Journal of Clinical Case Reports and Reviews was exceptional. I Come forth to Provide a Testimonial Covering the Peer Review Process and the editorial office for the Professional and Impartial Evaluation of the Manuscript.

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Luiz Sellmann

I would like to offer my testimony in the support. I have received through the peer review process and support the editorial office where they are to support young authors like me, encourage them to publish their work in your esteemed journals, and globalize and share knowledge globally. I really appreciate your journal, peer review, and editorial office.

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Zhao Jia

Dear Agrippa Hilda- Editorial Coordinator of Journal of Neuroscience and Neurological Surgery, "The peer review process was very quick and of high quality, which can also be seen in the articles in the journal. The collaboration with the editorial office was very good."

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Thomas Urban

I would like to express my sincere gratitude for the support and efficiency provided by the editorial office throughout the publication process of my article, “Delayed Vulvar Metastases from Rectal Carcinoma: A Case Report.” I greatly appreciate the assistance and guidance I received from your team, which made the entire process smooth and efficient. The peer review process was thorough and constructive, contributing to the overall quality of the final article. I am very grateful for the high level of professionalism and commitment shown by the editorial staff, and I look forward to maintaining a long-term collaboration with the International Journal of Clinical Case Reports and Reviews.

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Cristina Berriozabal

To Dear Erin Aust, I would like to express my heartfelt appreciation for the opportunity to have my work published in this esteemed journal. The entire publication process was smooth and well-organized, and I am extremely satisfied with the final result. The Editorial Team demonstrated the utmost professionalism, providing prompt and insightful feedback throughout the review process. Their clear communication and constructive suggestions were invaluable in enhancing my manuscript, and their meticulous attention to detail and dedication to quality are truly commendable. Additionally, the support from the Editorial Office was exceptional. From the initial submission to the final publication, I was guided through every step of the process with great care and professionalism. The team's responsiveness and assistance made the entire experience both easy and stress-free. I am also deeply impressed by the quality and reputation of the journal. It is an honor to have my research featured in such a respected publication, and I am confident that it will make a meaningful contribution to the field.

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Dr Tewodros Kassahun Tarekegn

"I am grateful for the opportunity of contributing to [International Journal of Clinical Case Reports and Reviews] and for the rigorous review process that enhances the quality of research published in your esteemed journal. I sincerely appreciate the time and effort of your team who have dedicatedly helped me in improvising changes and modifying my manuscript. The insightful comments and constructive feedback provided have been invaluable in refining and strengthening my work".

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Dr Shweta Tiwari

I thank the ‘Journal of Clinical Research and Reports’ for accepting this article for publication. This is a rigorously peer reviewed journal which is on all major global scientific data bases. I note the review process was prompt, thorough and professionally critical. It gave us an insight into a number of important scientific/statistical issues. The review prompted us to review the relevant literature again and look at the limitations of the study. The peer reviewers were open, clear in the instructions and the editorial team was very prompt in their communication. This journal certainly publishes quality research articles. I would recommend the journal for any future publications.

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Dr Farooq Wandroo

Dear Jessica Magne, with gratitude for the joint work. Fast process of receiving and processing the submitted scientific materials in “Clinical Cardiology and Cardiovascular Interventions”. High level of competence of the editors with clear and correct recommendations and ideas for enriching the article.

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Dr Anyuta Ivanova

We found the peer review process quick and positive in its input. The support from the editorial officer has been very agile, always with the intention of improving the article and taking into account our subsequent corrections.

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Dr David Vinyes

My article, titled 'No Way Out of the Smartphone Epidemic Without Considering the Insights of Brain Research,' has been republished in the International Journal of Clinical Case Reports and Reviews. The review process was seamless and professional, with the editors being both friendly and supportive. I am deeply grateful for their efforts.

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Gertraud Teuchert-Noodt

To Dear Erin Aust – Editorial Coordinator of Journal of General Medicine and Clinical Practice! I declare that I am absolutely satisfied with your work carried out with great competence in following the manuscript during the various stages from its receipt, during the revision process to the final acceptance for publication. Thank Prof. Elvira Farina

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Dr Elvira Farina

Dear Jessica, and the super professional team of the ‘Clinical Cardiology and Cardiovascular Interventions’ I am sincerely grateful to the coordinated work of the journal team for the no problem with the submission of my manuscript: “Cardiometabolic Disorders in A Pregnant Woman with Severe Preeclampsia on the Background of Morbid Obesity (Case Report).” The review process by 5 experts was fast, and the comments were professional, which made it more specific and academic, and the process of publication and presentation of the article was excellent. I recommend that my colleagues publish articles in this journal, and I am interested in further scientific cooperation. Sincerely and best wishes, Dr. Oleg Golyanovskiy.

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Dr Oleg Golyanovski

Dear Ashley Rosa, Editorial Coordinator of the journal - Psychology and Mental Health Care. " The process of obtaining publication of my article in the Psychology and Mental Health Journal was positive in all areas. The peer review process resulted in a number of valuable comments, the editorial process was collaborative and timely, and the quality of this journal has been quickly noticed, resulting in alternative journals contacting me to publish with them." Warm regards, Susan Anne Smith, PhD. Australian Breastfeeding Association.

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Dr Susan Anne Smith

Dear Jessica Magne, Editorial Coordinator, Clinical Cardiology and Cardiovascular Interventions, Auctores Publishing LLC. I appreciate the journal (JCCI) editorial office support, the entire team leads were always ready to help, not only on technical front but also on thorough process. Also, I should thank dear reviewers’ attention to detail and creative approach to teach me and bring new insights by their comments. Surely, more discussions and introduction of other hemodynamic devices would provide better prevention and management of shock states. Your efforts and dedication in presenting educational materials in this journal are commendable. Best wishes from, Farahnaz Fallahian.

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Dr Farahnaz Fallahian

Dear Maria Emerson, Editorial Coordinator, International Journal of Clinical Case Reports and Reviews, Auctores Publishing LLC. I am delighted to have published our manuscript, "Acute Colonic Pseudo-Obstruction (ACPO): A rare but serious complication following caesarean section." I want to thank the editorial team, especially Maria Emerson, for their prompt review of the manuscript, quick responses to queries, and overall support. Yours sincerely Dr. Victor Olagundoye.

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Dr Victor Olagundoye

Dear Ashley Rosa, Editorial Coordinator, International Journal of Clinical Case Reports and Reviews. Many thanks for publishing this manuscript after I lost confidence the editors were most helpful, more than other journals Best wishes from, Susan Anne Smith, PhD. Australian Breastfeeding Association.

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Dr Susan Anne Smith

Dear Agrippa Hilda, Editorial Coordinator, Journal of Neuroscience and Neurological Surgery. The entire process including article submission, review, revision, and publication was extremely easy. The journal editor was prompt and helpful, and the reviewers contributed to the quality of the paper. Thank you so much! Eric Nussbaum, MD

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Dr Eric S Nussbaum